Don't be fooled by their somewhat intimidating names: naturally present in our bodies and key players in the well-being of our skin microbiota, acids retain water in our skin and guarantee optimal hydration . As their natural production decreases with age, they are now available in targeted skincare products. These so-called "cosmetic" acids are chemical molecules, mostly extracted from fruits or plants. Prized for their exfoliating, purifying, hydrating, soothing, or plumping properties, they offer a targeted solution to your skin concerns.
Ascorbic acid
Better known as Vitamin C, ascorbic acid is a water-soluble molecule, making it very popular in cosmetics. It can be of synthetic or plant origin and is found in citrus fruits, broccoli, and cabbage, among other things.
Essential for collagen production, vitamin C is a key ingredient for skin elasticity, suppleness and good firmness.
Prized for its powerful antioxidant properties, it strengthens the immune system and prevents the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots by regulating the activity of melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin synthesis in the epidermis. A valuable ally for problem skin and skin prone to acne scars, it helps even out skin tone. By slowing down tissue oxidation and regulating the skin's pH, it's also our best friend for a radiant complexion !
Boost your vitamin C: We want a flawless complexion . The perfect ally for skin that tends to thin or lacks firmness, this powder, made from 100% berries and plants (blackcurrant, baobab, raspberry, horsetail, and ginger), plumps the skin from within. Enjoy it freely in smoothies, lattes, or simply with water. Works in synergy with the Bone Brothers , the delicious broths that are ultra-rich in collagen.
Hyaluronic acid
The undisputed star of acids, it adapts to almost all skin types. This ultra-powerful hydrating molecule is one of the main components of our extracellular matrix. A veritable water sponge naturally present in our body, hyaluronic acid helps retain tissue moisture (up to 1000 times its weight in water!) and plays a crucial role in maintaining tissue integrity , from skin and connective tissues to nervous tissues.
Prized for the plump appearance it gives the skin, this multi-functional acid reduces skin aging, sagging, and loss of elasticity. The catch? From the age of 25, its production decreases year after year, leading to visible skin laxity and more pronounced signs of aging over the years , reaching almost zero in very elderly people. To preserve your hyaluronic acid reserves, opt for skincare products rich in hyaluronic acid, which will smooth the skin and boost collagen production by intensely hydrating cells from within.
However, be careful, not all hyaluronic acids are created equal! Their molecular weight is crucial in determining their effect on the skin. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid does not penetrate the epidermis and acts on the surface, plumping wrinkles and fine lines. Conversely, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate deeper into the layers of the epidermis to retain water long-term and boost the skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. Also, pay attention to the source/origin of the hyaluronic acid, which can be plant-based or animal-based.
A boost of hyaluronic acid: We want the ultimate radiance . Want to brighten your complexion as summer approaches? Opt for this treatment with a powerful triple active ingredient: collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin (Ovoderm®), combined with organic melon SOD and zinc.
Salicylic acid
Naturally synthesized by certain fruits and plants, salicylic acid takes its name from the willow bark from which it was originally extracted. An SOS treatment for blemish-prone skin, often combined with azelaic acid, this anti-inflammatory active ingredient addresses the specific needs of oily or acne-prone skin by regulating sebum production and clearing blemishes. Thanks to its astringent properties, it removes dead skin cells accumulated on the stratum corneum and stimulates skin renewal, for a brighter complexion free of dullness. While generally well-tolerated by most skin types, it does present a risk of photosensitivity, particularly for sensitive skin. It should be avoided during sun exposure—and also during pregnancy.
Essential fatty acids
Also known as Omega-3 and Omega-6, essential fatty acids cannot be synthesized by the body and must therefore be obtained through diet. Key players in cardiovascular health, these acids contribute to blood fluidity and the maintenance of optimal cholesterol levels, thus reducing the risk of hypertension. Essential fatty acids are vital to the skin, forming part of the lipid "cement" that binds cells together, strengthening the skin barrier and preventing water from evaporating. Key factors in maintaining radiance, essential fatty acids soften the skin and improve its elasticity by promoting hydration. Omega-6 fatty acids are readily available (in oilseeds and virgin vegetable oils such as olive and walnut oil). Omega-3 fatty acids are less common, found in small oily fish from cold waters (sardines, mackerel, etc.), chia, flax, and hemp seeds.
Powerful anti-inflammatories, fatty acids also contribute to maintaining healthy and balanced skin.
The AHAs
Natural acids derived from fruit or vegetable sugars, lactic, malic, glycolic, citric and tartaric acids are grouped under the name AHA.
Powerful active ingredients that deeply regenerate the epidermis, they exfoliate the skin and produce the sought-after "peeling" effect desired by those suffering from blemishes or the first signs of aging . They act primarily on the skin's surface by stimulating the skin's natural moisturizing agents and promoting cell renewal.
Integrated into our beauty routines, skin exfoliation using AHAs eliminates dead cells on the skin's surface, limiting the appearance of acne, hyperpigmentation and imperfections, while unifying and restoring radiance to the skin.
Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, grapes, or beets, and lactic acid are the most commonly used AHAs in cosmetics. These acids provide optimal skin exfoliation.
Folic acid
Essential during pregnancy and also in the preconception phase, folic acid, or vitamin B9, plays a role in the proper development of the baby's cardiovascular and nervous systems. Found particularly in oilseeds and leafy green vegetables, it also strengthens the cell regeneration process and stimulates cell renewal in hair and nails.
Retinoic acid
Derived from retinol (or vitamin A), retinoic acid is found in green vegetables, as well as carrots, pumpkin, peaches, and all oily fish. Also used in cosmetics, vitamin A treats numerous skin conditions, from hyperpigmentation to wrinkles and fine lines, and loss of firmness. By strengthening the deep structure of the dermis, this active ingredient also stimulates collagen production, which tends to decrease with age, particularly in people who have overexposed themselves to the sun. In this case, an anti-inflammatory treatment based on hyaluronic acid and vitamin C is essential!
Retinol, a powerful active ingredient, should be used with caution: intensive use can cause redness and dryness, especially on sensitive skin. Consult your dermatologist.
Acids and sun: caution is essential!
Be careful before opting for skincare products loaded with acids of any kind: some active ingredients can be irritating! Avoid fruit extracts (especially glycolic acid) during periods of prolonged sun exposure, and apply SPF 50 sunscreen even in the city. And to ensure you create a routine perfectly suited to your skin's needs, consult your dermatologist rather than playing chemist with products that have harsh formulas, sometimes packed with powerful active ingredients.
