Response from Dr. Martine Baspeyras, dermatologist.
What are the signs of an unbalanced skin microbiota?
“Redness, itchy, stinging, reactive, allergic skin, acne, eczema, and premature skin aging can all be signs of a microbiota imbalance,” explains Dr. Martine Baspeyras, dermatologist. She adds, “Research on the skin microbiota is still in its infancy, as it is complex because it is unique to each individual.”
Indeed, just like our gut flora, we each possess a unique microbial identity specific to our skin. This identity differs depending on whether we were born vaginally or by cesarean section, whether we were breastfed or not, our diet, and our lifestyle—smoker or non-smoker, alcohol consumer or not, regular exercise or sedentary lifestyle. The microbiome is fragile and fluctuating. According to a study from the University of California, Irvine, presented in 2019 at the annual meeting of the American Society for Microbiology, swimming in the ocean is enough to alter our skin microbiota. And for good reason: water pollution impacts our microbiological balance.
Why are (some) bacteria good for our skin?
"Because they form an interface between the inner and outer worlds, while ensuring a vital protective role called the barrier function: the famous layers of dead cells and sebum that prevent allergens, irritants, pollutants and other substances responsible for external aggressions from penetrating the skin and reaching its deepest layers," explains the dermatologist.
Good news, according to Dr. Robynn Chutkan, an American gastroenterologist specializing in the gut and the microbiome: "The older we get, the more resistant and resilient our skin microbiota becomes." Provided we take good care of it.
How to take care of your skin microbiota?
At the risk of repeating myself, the contents of our plate are fundamental. I can only advise you to (re)read the Beauty Food guide. Written by Atelier Nubio. In short, nourishing our gut microbiota with good fiber will show on the condition of our skin. So, forget sugar and processed foods, and fill your plates with organic vegetables, legumes, whole or semi-whole grains, small oily fish, and shellfish. Drink herbal teas and broths, and go easy on the alcohol.
Next, we must be gentle with our skin. And even though, since Covid, the trend has been towards widespread disinfection, "we don't strip our skin!" Dr. Baspeyras emphasizes to his patients. " Maintaining the skin's acidity, with a natural pH of 5 to 5.5, is essential; we mustn't destroy its vital hydrolipidic film. " The skin provides moisture, warmth, trace elements, and sources of carbon and nitrogen to nourish its precious bacteria. In return, these bacteria prevent the growth of harmful bacteria, the ones responsible for infections. It's a two-way street. To avoid disrupting this balance, the steps are simple.
What beauty routine can we use to take care of our microbiota?
For the face: practice double cleansing in the evening, and only in the evening, but be very gentle! Always keep in mind our pH of 5. So forget soap, even those labeled "physiological pH," which means nothing, explains Dr. Baspeyras. Instead, opt for a cleansing oil lightly emulsified with water, followed by a non-stripping cleanser.
Personally, I have skin that tends to feel tight and red, but I'm a big fan of using water on my skin, which is invigorating and makes it feel fresher. I regularly use a gentle double cleansing method with an oil and a cleansing emulsion enriched with lactic acid bacteria. Dermatologists recommend finishing this step with a prebiotic thermal water spray, which provides all the essential elements and nutrients necessary for the bacteria. Pro tip: don't let it air dry, but pat it gently. I follow this with a serum (again, with probiotics!) . In the morning, a spritz of thermal water or lotion is enough to maintain the microbiome that regenerated overnight. Then I moisturize with the same serum as in the evening and the most basic moisturizer possible. With this routine, I say goodbye to tightness, redness, and chapped skin.
It's worth noting that bacteria hate air pollution, temperature fluctuations, air conditioning, stress, and hand sanitizer, all of which contribute to "inflammaging," the inflammation of cells responsible for skin aging. So, they won't mind a spritz of the same thermal water and a touch of cream if your skin feels tight during the day. And above all, don't overuse exfoliants, even weekly.
For the body : the same principle applies as for the face. A shower with a gentle cleansing cream that's kind to skin and bacteria is essential, especially if your skin suffers from allergies, eczema, or is atopic. And even if you're in a rush in the morning, don't skip the body moisturizing step.
How to capitalize on the gut-skin axis?
We're focusing on supplements that are kind to our gut bacteria. At Atelier Nubio, the new favorite is Microbiota & Skin. , a natural and innovative supplement targeting the 'gut-skin' axis.
What makes it different from other probiotics? The 4 probiotic strains in Microbiota & Skin have been studied and selected specifically for their benefits on skin beauty (some strains only act on digestion).
Listen to: The Sakara Life Podcast (in English) "The magic of the microbiome with Dr. Robynne Chutkan".
Thank you to Dr. Martine Baspeyras.
